THE ANCIENT GRICIA




“The Gricia” is an ancient dish, also known as the ancestor of the most popular “La Matriciana” and of "Carbonara". Among the various stories about the origins of the name there are two interesting theories: the first says that it takes the name from the “Gricio” which was the Roman name for the merchants of bread and other similar foods; the other theory instead argues that it originates from “Grisciano”, a small town neighbouring with Amatrice.



THE RECIPE


INGREDIENTS
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
6 ounces guanciale (salt-cured pork jowl), cut into 3/4" pieces
8 ounces rigatoni
Kosher salt
2 teaspoons coarsely ground black pepper, preferably ground with a mortar and pestle
3 ounces Pecorino Romano, finely grated on the small holes of a box grater (about 3 cups)
PREPARATION
Heat oil in a large skillet over mediumlow. Cook guanciale, stirring often, until it starts to brown and crisp, 10–15 minutes; it will shrink dramatically as the fat renders. Transfer to a small bowl with a slotted spoon; reserve skillet (do not wipe out). Meanwhile, cook pasta in a large pot of boiling lightly salted water, stirring occasionally, until pasta is about halfway cooked (not quite al dente); drain, reserving 1 1/2 cups pasta cooking liquid. Add 3/4 cup pasta cooking liquid to reserved skillet and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat, swirling often to encourage drippings and liquid to emulsify, about 1 minute. Add pasta and cook, tossing often and adding more pasta cooking liquid as needed, until pasta is al dente and a thick, glossy sauce forms, 5–7 minutes (this second cooking is why you undercook the pasta initially). Increase heat to medium-high. Add guanciale, pepper, and two-thirds of Pecorino; toss well to combine and melt cheese. Serve pasta topped with remaining Pecorino.