Trastevere, which translates literally to “across the Tiber,” was once considered the outskirts of Rome. Allowed to develop its own flavor and now part of il centro storico, it’s the perfect place to glimpse a bit of the old world while still enjoying the lifestyle of today’s Romans.

Often described as Bohemian, homes bedecked with flower boxes and clinging ivy, intertwined with coffee bars, restaurants, and one-of-a-kind boutiques. Buildings in terracotta and wine cast a glow, like a daylong sunset. From the cobblestone streets to the overhanging laundry lines, senses are pleasantly awakened with every step.

Wedged between the Tiber river, the Vatican, and Janiculum Hill, Trastevere truly is in the thick of it all! Split into two distinct sides of Viale Trastevere, visitors can find their ideal patch of splendour. On the Santa Maria in Trastevere side, tourists and international students mingle in and out of well-priced pubs and tavernas. On the other side of Viale Trastevere, to the south, a genuine Roman spirit breathes amidst cobbled streets and traditional osterie.

As charming as Trastevere is, the winding streets can be a bit confusing. A detailed map may be included in your travel book, but if not, it is well worth spending another few euros to save time and limit frustration. Start your visit at the outdoor mercato at Piazza San Cosimato, located one block from Via San Francesco a Ripa. Tented booths display a bountiful array of tantalizing fruits and vegetables. It’s an opportunity to observe locals buying the freshest ingredients for the day’s meals and then carrying it all home in their trailing, 2-wheeled shopping carts. Vendors open their stalls around 8:00 a.m. and close at 2:00 p.m.

Trasteverini take full advantage of Rome’s temperate climate. It isn’t unusual to spot a signora snapping peas and taking in the morning sun on a chair just outside her doorway. Later in the afternoon, two blocks away, men in Piazza San Calisto set up folding tables among the cobblestones to play card games, ignoring cars squeezing in around them. The most popular gathering place in the area is Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere. Dating back to the 3rd century, the church of Santa Maria in Trastevere is the oldest in the city. Take note that there are no less than 80 other churches named for her in Rome. Visitors come to view the gleaming mosaics by Pietro Cavallini and then linger on the steps of the octagonal fountain to people watch and enjoy an aperitif at Caffé Di Marzio.

Saturdays almost ensure a wedding or two will take place. Tradition dictates all guests and members of the wedding party must wait outside the church to see the bride arrive. It’s a very special moment that no Italian wants to miss. If it’s Friday morning, you might see the local arrotino or knife sharpener pedal by on his bicycle replete with whetstone. His distinctive bellow signals the building’s tenants to lower a basket from their window with cutlery in need of honing.