Moving down Vicolo del Cinque, look for little known gems like Jacche Calzature, a funky shoe store offering sample shoes and those worn in fashion shows for a hard-to-believe price. Outfitting women and men, there are two locations, both in Trastevere: Vicolo del Cinque 24/b and Via Benedetta 9. During the winter clearance sale, boots sold for only Euro 15 a pair.

In keeping with the area’s authenticity of a real neighborhood, plastic likenesses of David and glittery miniature coliseums are absent. Instead, unique shops echo the artisans of the Roman Empire. Turn right at the end of Vicolo del Cinque and make time to visit Polvere di Tempo, (Via del Moro, 59) where the unifying theme is well, time. Interesting curios include handcrafted hourglasses, sundials, globes, and kaleidoscopes. The giant 18-hour hourglass alone is worth the trip.

If you find yourself longing for some English-reading material, The Almost Corner Bookshop (Via del Moro, 45) carries all types of books and an especially good selection of historical and fictional titles. Backtrack a short distance to Ferrara (Via del Moro 1/a-Piazza Trilussa 41). “Upscale” best describes this gourmet food/wine shop and restaurant. A gift-boxed, 100-year-old bottle of balsamic vinegar will set you back about Euro 270. For the rest of us, there are reasonably priced Italian specialties including capers, olives, pesto and tomato sauces. Prices range from Euro 0.70 for a chocolate to Euro 900 for a rare bottle of wine.

Ambling up the street behind Piazza Trilussa, be sure to stop in at Checco, (Via Benedetta, 10) a favorite coffee bar of the locals, for an espresso and cornetto or pastry. Try the pine nut torta for something special and if chocolate’s your thing, you won’t be disappointed with the thick and steamy cioccolata calda. Go ahead and splurge a little when asked if you want it con panna – with whipped cream on top.

For excellent pizza by the slice, exit Checco and turn left continuing straight to find La Boccaccia (Via di Santa Dorotea, 2). This is more an eat-and-run type of place, but is definitely worth finding if for no other reason than to sample the potato and cheese combination. Delizioso!

For a light lunch, cafés and bars feature tramezzini. These white bread sandwiches cut crosswise, with various fillings, are delicious and economical. Pull up a chair at Caffé Settimiana (corner of Vicolo della Scala and Via di Santa Dorotea) and enjoy lunch while taking in a close up view of Porta Settimiana, a gate in the Aurelian Wall dating back to 1498. Follow the straight road that starts on the other side, Via della Lungara, and it will lead you to the Vatican. A brisk walk, will take you there in about 25 minutes.