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Illustrated by Costanza Toti
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Across Rome’s Tiber river lies a former working-class neighbourhood that today is one of the city’s most beautiful hangouts. Lining the cobblestone streets of Trastevere are many of Rome’s best restaurants and pizzerias, tucked away inside charming medieval buildings. Here’s how to see Rome’s most picturesque streets with my self-guided Trastevere walking tour.


Despite being a tourist hotspot, Trastevere has managed to retain a strong local and Roman identity. By taking any side street you’ll quickly escape the crowds drawn to this area. To experience a calmer Trastevere, arrive well before 11:30 am when the tourists start to make an appearance. Be sure to come back in the evening to see why Trastevere has a name for its bustling nightlife.


If you find yourself longing for some English-reading material, The Almost Corner Bookshop (Via del Moro, 45) carries all types of books and an especially good selection of historical and fictional titles.

Join for the Tour

The best and easiest way to reach Trastevere is by taking the tram from either Piazza Venezia or Largo di Torre Argentina. Even though it’s a short enough distance to walk, you’re better off saving your energy for the walking tour. Be sure you wear comfy shoes as the cobblestones are very unforgiving.


For excellent pizza by the slice, exit Checco and turn left continuing straight to find La Boccaccia (Via di Santa Dorotea, 2). This is more an eat-and-run type of place, but is definitely worth finding if for no other reason than to sample the potato and cheese combination. Delizioso!

For a light lunch, cafés and bars feature tramezzini. These white bread sandwiches cut crosswise, with various fillings, are delicious and economical. Pull up a chair at Caffé Settimiana (corner of Vicolo della Scala and Via di Santa Dorotea) and enjoy lunch while taking in a close up view of Porta Settimiana, a gate in the Aurelian Wall dating back to 1498. Follow the straight road that starts on the other side, Via della Lungara, and it will lead you to the Vatican. A brisk walk, will take you there in about 25 minutes.


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